OK, you have made up your mind, to start a new hobby, something to get you outside in the fresh air, do some walking [without traipsing over hill & dale] its got to be cost-effective, family bonding, something everyone can do, maybe meeting & chatting with new people, but most of all fun…

So now you have decided on this wonderful hobby of Metal Detecting, where do you start & what equipment do you need…Where are the sites you can search… Will I find anything Etc…Etc…

Well lets put an age-old question to bed first, it is not about the cost of your metal detector, it is all about the “BRAND” there that’s surprised a few people… good, there are very – very few market leaders out there, and just because the metal detector you’re looking at “looks like” an expensive metal detector, and the cost is on par with the rest, in that price bracket, don’t be fooled by an over exaggerating salesman on certain auction and sale site, these salesman will blame you for not knowing how to use the machine, or anything else-but themselves, the end result will be one that ends in tears, as you will be left out-of-pocket and disheartened with your attempt at metal detecting & being left with a metal detector no one except an eight year old will want…

The key factor to remember is no Metal Detector can detect a single coin at depths of more than one metre, as even brand detectors struggle on a single coin at ten inches, air tests prove nothing but the fact that a coin can be detected in air at a far greater distance than the next one, the real test is what can it do in real life, if the optimum ground conditions are as perfect as can be and the coin is laid out flat, then if you read the signal right you should be able to dig it up, you see in all of this you have to factor in yourself, what is your capability’s of interpreting a signal that is broken, one way or a small blip that might sound right, you see a perfect signal, is a two-way crystal clear sound, with the object not far underground, it could be anything from an aluminium can, gun cartridge end, you see the list of junk is endless, this is what you will be finding before you strike it lucky and find a green disc, which at one time in its life it was useful, people loved to have it tucked away, ready to give to someone else to love, in exchange for things, yes that green disc at some point was a coin…

So who are theses Brand metal detector company’s, well I will only be displaying here the names of Metal Detector Manufacturers, that sell Metal Detectors that actually work…

Remember all other metal detectors are for the use of children under the age of eight… no matter what there selling price is, they are just expensive toys, and nothing else, place a coin on the carpet indoors they work fine, but outside in the real world “not a chance will they find anything”… sounds harsh but its true…

Brand Manufactories..

C-Scope; An English company, which manufactures metal detecting machines in Kent, and has done since 1978…any of there machines are good to buy, from the lower priced non motion metal detectors to the top of the range CM6, most of the company’s metal detectors come with shower proof outer casing, and has done since the early 1990’s, an innovation most detector company’s are still lacking, this is definitely one of the better company’s to use, and after a short learning curve & hunting in the right area, an instant success is guaranteed to start your metal detecting journey with…  cscope.co.uk

Fisher; Is the oldest manufacture of metal detectors and come from America, Fisher was bought out by First Texas in 2002, to add to their list of acquirements, all are very capable machines under there own rights, First Texas also owns Teknetics, with its legendary T2, whilst any of the bounty hunter range, are good start-up machines at the right price… https://www.tekneticsdirect.com

Viking; Another English manufacturing company that’s been going since the early seventies, good cost-effective metal detectors, well within the price range of the toys sold on various well-known shopping sites like Amazon and  along with Ebay & other auction sites, none are worth even looking at, yet the cheapest Viking is maybe ten or fifteen pounds dearer, but will still find coins or artefacts upwards of six inches in the ground, whether it is sand or soil, however the lower priced detectors are non-motion and are ideally suited to the beach’s, where they perform quite well on the wet areas, but will still be affected by the alkaline in the salt water, and they don’t punch to deep into the black sand areas, also be warned you will dig up so much junk in that area, and although the coil is waterproof the box is not, don’t allow it to be dropped in the water {see the care of your metal detector above} definitely one of the companies to look at…  www.metaldetectors.co.uk 

Garret…

Main Manufacturers from around the globe, some of them sell the three fundamental choices you will be faced with… Non Motion, Motion & Pulse, what are these and what do they do…

Non Motion – a metal detector that does not have to move to make a sound over a target, and needs to be manually tuned into the ground [condition] that you want to metal detect on, once turned on you should hear a faint audible background tone, that’s ok as all non-motion metal detectors run with a noise in the background, more like a steady’ish hum which is normal and is known as the “threshold”  – when this is steady then the machine is in its optimum level of operation, and fully tuned into the ground, a process that is relatively quick and easy to learn, before you begin to tune your metal detector, you first have to find an area that has little or no metal {1} you then move the detector up to knee height and down to about an inch or two above ground, this is called pumping & you do this quite quickly, & the threshold noise will get louder or disappears, if it disappears then you turn the tuning knob in the direction described in the manual {2} and the same for “if the threshold gets louder”  – once the threshold stays at a steady’ish hum, whilst “pumping” –  your there, with a finely tuned in and ready to hunt machine… Viking6 - Control Boxbut remember although the metal detector is tuned in at the start of your hunt, being a non-motion metal detector it does need re-tuning, from time to time & sometimes on a regular basis to keep it in tune, how and when will you know; when it needs tuning is quite simply, it is when the detector goes quite, or the threshold raises steadily becoming quite noisy, that means it has drifted out of tune, and there are a multitude of reasons for this, the most common being a large signal, a sudden change in the ground effects, or a target has been identified amongst others, on the more expensive non motion detectors they have a re-tune button, {5} as a means to re-tune making the process to stay tuned in to the ground quite easy, which eliminates the need to go through the complete process every time…

Viking1 - Control Box

Shown on the left is the Viking 1 without the retune button whilst above right you can quite clearly see the retune button on the Viking 6…

Whether you move the search coil or keep it still, these metal detectors will keep sounding off over a target, as the name suggests “non-motion” and are a general,wyman-head.jpg all round good guy, as explained earlier all non-motion metal detectors run with a steady’ish hum  in the background, known as the “threshold” – when this threshold is interrupted, by a piece of metal{3} under the coil, the threshold sound rises indicating a target has been found, to ascertain where the target is, you slowly move the search coil over the target until the loudest sound is heard, then the target should be under the coil where the stem of the metal detector joins the coil,
if the detector “nulls out” {4} this indicates that a large target has swamped the metal detectors circuitry and more than likely it is a large piece of iron [or is it]… although being a good machine, these have limited discrimination, which means you will be digging up quite a lot of iron, until your ears adjust to the very slight but different sounds, some machines will be like a low growl, whilst nonferrous will be a higher pitch, others will sound the same, Bill Wyman controlthese non-motion metal detectors can be used successfully on the wet sand near the salt water and black sand with limited success, whilst the dry sand, river foreshores, parks & fields are all fair game to a known brand of non motion metal detectors…

Please remember that all machines costing below the cheapest Viking metal detector, plus those that retail at a higher cost and are not a Brand machine, are Non-Motion unless it quite clearly states “Motion Detector” even then don’t waste your money, advice is always free…

{1} finding a piece of ground that is clean of metal is sometimes a problem, but by tuning, cleaning the ground and retuning & trying again, repeating the process, it will still, be only a couple of minutes out of your hunt time, and your detector is all set to go, and being properly tuned you stand a better chance of success…

{2} the ground balance section in the manual will tell you to either turn the tuning knob up [clockwise] or down [anti-clockwise] for the desired effect of “no noise” or “getting louder”

{3} 

{4} “nulled out” simply means the detector has gone quiet, and occasionally this happens over a large item that has simply swamped the machine with a signal, normally it means there is a large non-ferrous target under the coil, this will have no lasting effect on the detector, and it just simply requires retuning….

{5} as an example the difference between the cheapest Viking machine without a retune button & the retune button metal detector, there is a twenty to thirty pound extra in the price difference, and as a resale value well worth the extra cost…

shown here are two more of C Scope’s non-motion  1220XD Metal Detectormetal detectors, but the one on the right has a meter, although CS440XD Metal Detectorit works on the same principle as all of the other non-motion metal detectors, the meter, indicates ferrous and non ferrous metals, but like every metal detector you buy, to get the optimum results, you have to master the machine, but with this meter and powerful setup you wont be digging much iron, I can guarantee that…


anything below this line is simply a note book for me, and not in any order

Motion… very easy to use, within a minute of picking up and using a “brand” motion detector you will be getting down to sorting out the good from the bad signals, good for parks, fields and dry sand on the beach, with limited success on wet sand and river foreshores…


Pulse… a specialist metal detector, with a primary use on wet sand, very deep machine with C-Scope providing a well-rounded machine, any metal within its range will be picked up, 

with the exception of C-Scope they have several non-motion metal detectors, but they also manufacture a non-motion metal detector with a meter, one of the simplest of machines to use, it literally has a needle and left is iron [red] and by standing still or dropping into the right hand side [green] it is nonferrous, which is more desirable,

Non Motion… we will start with non motion as it was all that was available before the motion arrived, my first metal detector was a BFO [short for a beat freqeuisey oscaltor] then as i progressed and further improved metal detectors became available we went through the likes of “TR” [Transmit & receive] started this all off, non motion Metal Detectors take on a very different look today look for me


istic of this kind of detector is that it runs with a faint audible background tone present as you search the ground, giving an increase in volume as you pass the search head over a “find”. It will continue to give this increased volume tone when you hold the search head over the location of the “find”.
In other words it will still give a signal when there is NO Motion.
Motion detectors first appeared in the late 1970’s although not as we now them today, you would get whiplash if you was not careful, as the had to be used so fast, and were seen as a virtually automatic detector, these detectors are automatically tuned whenever they are operating and run silently as you scan the ground, when you pass the search head over a find, the detector will emit a short “beep” as the search head is swept over the “find”.
When the search head stops being moved over the “find”, the detector will no longer “beep” even if the “find” is right underneath the search head. So the detector must be in MOTION to locate a “find”. Motion detectors are simpler to use and many are fitted with First Texas “pinpoint” switch to allow temporary conversion to Non-Motion Mode to help locate the “find”

CS440XD Metal Detector

 

Motion…

    Image result for 1st Texas Metal Detectors

 

Pulse… 

C.SCOPE CS4Pi Metal Detector

 

And all the rest are expensive carpet detectors, if its laid out on the surface of your carpet at home, great then it will work…


 


How as a beginner do you get started with your Metal Detector …

As a beginner have you ever wondered why some people always get that much better depth, more finds, better this and that… well lets examine how we can improve on that for you, shall we.. you must remember there are two basic factors, which come into play with every metal detector made, no matter which model you chose, whether its motion or non-motion, that model you have chosen can only ever go to its own personal maximum depth, this is predetermined by two things; the electronic circuitry of the metal detector itself & the size or diameter & physics of the search coil, so where does the human factor come in ? it doesn’t, if joe blogs is finding more that you, and he is using the same machine, then that is down to the human factor, so let’s have a look below to see how we might improve our own human factor & finds rate…IMG_7646 (2)

If your brand of metal detector is being used by a seasoned metal detectorist, then that is where some of the secrets lie, he has become attuned to his metal detector for one, and without him knowing it, he has learnt a few basics which have stayed with him all the way along…

what you are about to read, may seem like common sense, but until you have been out there and start people watching, then i guarantee you will come back here and check up on a few things…

 

1 – Buy a Brand metal detector within your budget…

2 – Always use Headphones… a full “cup” set are best, these are the big ones that surround your ears, there are several reasons these are better that a “small on the ear or in the ear headphones” not only do they block out external noises, but enables the very weak signal to be heard, especially when that signal is presented as a faint or a very soft whisper, whether it is a two-way or just a one way signal it is these, that are very often deep targets, these soft signals are often lost when wearing the open or small set of headphones, as they struggle to pick up these weaker signals, also a lot of the external noises are not blocked out by the smaller headphones, a small point to note, but not essential is to try & get a pair of headphones with a coiled “headphone cord” which is much better than a straight one, the coiled cables flex really well but stays out-of-the-way while your moving around, whilst the straight cables tend to be longer and get in the way when moving or kneeling down, but, like I said it is not essential, to start with, as long as you have headphones… IMG_5932 (2)Most dedicated metal detecting headphones, unlike other full cup headphones have a volume control for each ear, this is very important if your hearing is impaired in one or both ears, or even if your hearing is sensitive, the volume control’s can be used to predetermine the level “in each ear” that you receive the sound of the signal, making it comfortable and not to loud so-as to blast your ears off… before you start to think you have to buy specialist headphones, no you don’t, a cheap pair for fifteen pounds or less will suffice to get you started, just remember, headphones are made for the comfort of the person buying them to use “indoors” not outside in the mud, water, dust, dirt etc-etc… headphones (3)_LI.jpgso please don’t expect them to be your forever pair… the pair shown on the right [with the red-cross] cost seven pounds with free delivery, and they will do to get you started…  Now because some metal detectors are monophonic, make sure the headphones your thinking of buying is future proof, this is so the headphones are compatible with not only your metal detector now, but if you change brands later, they can be used again with a new machine, sometimes this is a simple but often overlooked issue, & very easy to rectify, make sure your headphones have a mono / stereo switch, so as your headphones are adaptable to different brands of metal detectors, for example Garrets are monaural & Tesoro’s are stereo… So which brand of headphones do you buy, again this is a personal choice, most pairs of “good” dedicated metal detecting headphones start at around the £ 80.00p mark, as shown above left, these are Predator headphones from Crawfords https://www.crawfordsmd.com and are made in England by Crawfords for the metal detectorist, the company are well established for over twenty years, the ones shown are my personal ones which are sixteen years old, and so worth the money…  Image result for greyghost headphones

Shown on the left are a pair of Detector Pro, Grey Ghost headphones, an American company which set the bar for dedicated metal detecting headphones in the early 90’s and have remained the market leaders in England ever since, and you can quite clearly see the volume controls, yes they look big, and they are that size for a reason, you can adjust the volume with gloves on or with muddy hands, whilst the mono/stereo switch, is neatly tucked inside of the ear cup of the headphones, there is a full range of Detector Pro Headphones which can be bought at various shops…

2 Detect slowly…

When you first go out, remember the Tortious and the Hare… there is no rush, the coins are going nowhere, like the artefacts there staying put, waiting patently for you, take a leaf out of there book, be patient, ok sometimes you might be going to slow becuase of your detector, some detectors are better at being swung faster than others, but as a rule of thumb, slow down, by having the patience to go slow, those strange signals the quiet ones, or soft one way signals, thery are the deeper signals, which by going to fast, you are more than likly, going to miss…

if you have a spare hour, practise by putting some coins and artefacts onto the ground, even nails, and play around with your swing speed, by practising like this you are finding the opitum speed for your detector to pick up targets, and more importaintly you are testing your hearing to hear which sounds are right, it is also a good idea, to raise and lower your coil whilst practising,  as a point “to note” how many golfers dont practice there swing ?

3- Why its importaint to keep a short swing & always keep your coil close to the ground.

Remember if your coil is an inch or two above the surface of the ground thats an inch or two your potentionly losing in depth, all coils that need a coil cover must have them, and this is exactly why, the ground is full of stones which can be razer sharp, soil is an abrasive, mix that with rocks and anything else you can think off, and you will soon need a new coil, my coil cover is scratched, cut and needs a piece of silicon to hold it in place, but when i eventuliy get round to replacing it, it will not be as expensive as a new coil, thats why a coil cover for a few pounds seems pretty logical, rather than spending over a hundred pounds for a new coil, i actually brush the ground with my coil, the search coil always sit as close as i can possabiliy get it, i detect metodically ploding aong waiting for the next signal, no matter how long it takes, it will come, and if its junk, ah well, on to the next signal…

no matter how tall or short you are, try to keep the swing of your detector no more than a foot either side of your leg, p from the ground at the ends of the swing.

Not only that, but on those longer loop swings your loop makes more of an angle with the ground. And that robs you of depth. You should keep the loop absolutely parallel to the ground for the entire length of your swing, and move your whole arm without bending your wrist. (If your detector has an armrest, you won’t be able to bend your wrist as you swing your machine).

5). Use minimum discrimination.

When you increase discrimination on most metal detectors, you lose depth and a lot of gold rings. I recommend that you discriminate out iron, but nothing else except when junk conditions are so bad you can’t live with low discrimination.

If you must use higher discrimination, here are instructions on how to set your discriminator to eliminate pulltabs (this will cost you many gold rings): Put a pulltab on the ground and swing your coil back and forth over it, slowly increasing the discrimination until the sound of the pulltab breaks up or becomes erratic (or it may just go silent). Stop! You are now at a setting that will eliminate most junk, including pulltabs, but you will still find all coins except nickels.

There are some high-end detectors that have notch filters or target ID systems that allow you to skip pulltabs and still find nickels and some gold rings. Note I said SOME gold rings!

My first detector (in the early 1970’s) was primitive, with no discrimination. I had no choice but to dig every bottle cap and pulltab in creation, hating every bit of it. BUT, I found more gold rings with that detector in the three years I used it than I have found in the last 20-odd years with a multitude of deeper, more modern detectors that have discrimination circuitry.

If you want to find gold rings, please go back and read that last paragraph again!

No, I’m not telling you to hit the flea markets in search of a primitive detector. I’m telling you to turn off the discrimination as often as you can stand it. Play this game: tell yourself that you are going to hunt with no discrimination until you have collected 25 pulltabs, or 50 pulltabs. By then you will probably be batty enough that you just have to turn the discrimination back on. At least this method gives you a fighting chance for some gold rings.

Remember, the other treasure hunters who use discrimination are skipping right over those gold rings. Those rings will not be found until some brave soul turns off that discrimination. Shouldn’t that brave soul be you?

6). Overlap your swings more.

The deeper a coin is buried, the smaller the area of your detector’s signal that reaches that coin. So in addition to the fact that your detector power is less on deeper coins, you also have a much greater chance of missing a deeper coin because your signal area shrinks as the signal goes deeper.

Think of the detecting pattern beneath your coil as a pointed-tip ice cream cone. Though your loop has a diameter of 8 inches, its detecting field narrows as the signal goes deeper, until at maximum depth your signal area is just a single point. Don’t move that point too far with each sweep. The more you overlap your swings, the more likely you’ll find those deep coins that you would otherwise miss.

7). Hunt when the ground is wet.

The wetter the ground, the more depth you’re going to get from your detector. We all know we’re more likely to get an electrical shock when we’re standing in water. This is because water is a much better conductor of electricity than is air.

Similarly, your metal detector’s signal can penetrate deeper into the ground when the soil is moist, and on a wet day you can find coins that are too deep to detect when the ground is dry. (Note: the ground can on rare occasions be too wet, causing false signals. If this happens, turn your sensitivity control down).

Besides better depth, there are two added bonuses of metal detecting after a good rain. The ground is much easier to dig when it is wet, and the root system of the grass is less likely to be damaged by your digging.

8*  Practice, like anything in life, the more practise you put in the more proficient you become…

As in virtually every sport or skill, the more you practice the better you get. At first, it requires quite an effort to put all these suggestions into action. You must concentrate on each point, and constantly remind yourself to stay on track with each of the above tips.

But after several sessions, these difficult-to-remember procedures begin to become second nature to you, and you’ll do them all automatically.

And that is when you’ll find that you are the one who is leaving the others behind. When that happens, be a good chap and share these tips with them, too


Hidden in Plain Sight

I have seen and used many Metal Detectors over the years, it is a weapon of choice for finding buried treasure under the ground, but until now ive never seen a more appropriately created Poster Art that sums up how artefacts and coins got where they are, and the importance of a decent metal detector to maximize the chances of finding your own piece of treasure… this mixed photograph came from the First Texas facebook page for their Teknetics metal detectors…photo-shopping at its best… a bueattfull out of the box thinking idea…

Could this be the beginning of a Modern Day Poster Art directed at Metal Detecting…

t2classicS
e of the best middle of the range metal detectors money can buy…

hidden history

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.tekneticsdirect.com/products


C.SCOPE CS4Pi Metal Detector